Nowruz - Haft Seen - 7s (Apr'12)

When I went to the Iranian embassy in Delhi for my visa, I saw a large table with a beautiful table-cloth and a number of items on it including a gold fish, The Quran, some coins, a garlic, and vinegar. I wondered what it was. On enquiring I was told was the 'Haft Seen' or the traditional table setting of Nowruz (Persian New year). I was so excited to get the visa that I forgot to read up on it when I got home.

When I reached Tehran (after a rather forgettable stopover at Dubai airport) I noticed that all the shops / establishments were closed and there was hardly any traffic – that is when I realised that the Persians take their New Years celebrations rather seriously.

The celebrations start on 21st of March (first day of spring) and last for 14 days. Originally a Zoroastrian festival, over the centuries it has been influenced by Islam (which came to Persia in 650AD). Every household sets up a 'Haft Seen' table. Haft = seven, Seen = alphabet 's' i.e. the '7 s'. Typically seven agricultural edible products, whose Persian names start with 's' are placed on the table - things like Apple (sib), Garlic (seer), Vinegar (serke), Grains or Vegetables (Sabzi). However, over time many things that are neither edible, nor of Persian origin have made their way to the table. Things like Samovar, Coins (sikke), Needle (soozan), Mirror, Candles, Painted Eggs, Pin (sanjaq), Watch (sa'at) and even Goldfish (which apparently has come through Chinese New Year traditions).

Originally, it was items whose name started with 'sh' (sharab - wine, shahad - nectar, shekar - sugar, shabeh - fruits) but after the advent of Islam in Persia, the seven 'sheen' became the seven 'seen'. 'Seen' is also the first letter of the names of the seven angels in ancient Persia.

On the 13th (or is it 14th) day of the celebrations, some items of the table are taken on the top of the car and left to be blown away (signifying that evil is being rid off). Goldfish and birds are also released back in nature. The family then goes for a picnic which can be anywhere - in a park or even in a parking lot. In fact, during my time there I saw innumerable tents in parking lots (some have called Iran the picnic capital of the world - the Iranians love picnicing!).

That day, it is considered a bad omen to stay at home. That I like