Che Che Che (Jun'12)



Before heading back to Havana, we spent a day in Cinfuegos, and passed through Santa Clara.

Cinfuegos was founded in 1819 by a Frenchman from Louisiana. It is an exceedingly pretty town with lots of lovely pastel- and brightly-coloured buildings. In the centre of town is the Parque Marti, which is very picturesque. This square has a cathedral, a Palacio, a Teatro, a Museo, and had lots of beauties when I went there - I’m talking about those cars from the 40s and the 50s.

Cinfuegos’ most well-known son is Benny More, a famous singer from the 40s and 50s - almost every Cuban knows most of his songs. There is a life-size statue of More in one of the main streets of Cinfuegos.

One of the attractions here is the Palacio de Valle, which is now an upscale restaurant bar. This Palacio was built in 1917 by a Spaniard. The Dictator Batista wanted to convert it into a casino but his plans never materialised as the revolution overthrew him. From the first floor of this restaurant there were beautiful views of the bay.

In the evening I went for a walk to Parque Marti – I was accosted by this man who wanted to know where I was from. He showed a lot of interest when I told him I was from India. This was followed by first a request, which turned into a threatening demand, for some money. That happened many times to me in Cuba - someone would come upto you – try to make some conversation and then either demand money or try to sell cheap cigars, rum, or women.

The next day we drove to Havana. On the way we stopped at Santa Clara which was where the last battle of the Cuban revolution took place when the ‘rebels’ derailed a train sent by Batista with supplies and soldiers. This derailment was the final nail in Batista’s coffin – after this the rebels attacked Batista’s troops in Santa Clara and the next day Batista fled the country and the Revolution was completed.

These days Santa Clara is known for another monument – Che Guevara’s remains are interred here. He was killed, and buried in, the Bolivian jungles in 1967. It was only in 1997 that his bones were transferred to Cuba and a memorial was built. There is also a small museum with photos of Che and many of his personal effects. It was the perfect day for us to visit the mausoleum as it was Che’s birthday that day (14th June) which also happened to be my birthday.

Che, though an Argentinian doctor, threw in his lot with Castro and the 'rebels'. He is somewhat of a demi-God in Cuba. Everywhere you see his images - on walls, on wallets, on belts, on t-shirts, and even on some Cuban notes. Omnipresent Il Commandante is.

That was the last bit of sightseeing we did before leaving for Havana.