As soon as the train left wet and rainy Prague, the weather became clear and the sun made a prolonged appearance in the skies. It was a indeed a pleasure to sleep in the gentle sunlight wafting in through the carriage windows though there was a sense of trepidation as I knew my strech of good weather luck would not last. and that it would be raining and muggy in Vienna. But it did last (for some time atleast!)
How one reacts to a new city depends on a number of factors - the journey, the expectations, the first place one visits, the crowds, the weather. My introduction to Prague was a cold, wet day (or rather evening) yet the first things I saw were the twin gothic spires of the Tyn church rising through the mist. That took my breath away and the subsequent overwhelming crowds at Prague castle and the constant rain could do nothing to spoil that first wonderful impression I got of Prague.
Vienna, on the other hand, was a different start. After checking-in, I reached Schotten-ring that is at the heart of the city and walked along Karl Lueger Ring towards Rathaus and the Parliament. The buildings were, no doubt, beautiful but I found the traffic a bit too heavy and fast and the horse-drawn buggies a tad tacky (even though I found them charming in Prague). All this despite the fact that the weather was a dreamy 16-17 degrees with the sun out in its full glory (so much for my fear in the train!).
So I didn´t like Vienna?
Initially yes, but then this changed as soon as I reached the Hofburg area. Suddenly the traffic melted and the horse carriages seemed to become quaint. Yes, I was beginning to like Vienna.
Vienna has a preponderance of Museums - Kunsthistorisches (sp? - Art history) museum which has a smacking collection of paintings as well as Greek/Roman/Egyptian artefacts, Royal Apartments (the residence of the Hapsburgs, the monarchy of Austria) and the silverware collection of the royal household (which at times catered to over 5k people - lavish and ornate are probably understatements - the most interesting parts are the elaborately folded napkins, the technique for which is apparently a state secret) and the 18th C Albertina which had an extremely comprehensive Van Gogh exhibition (which over 200 of his paintings and drawings). Much to my dismay, the museum also had a few Michelangelos which were hidden in an obscure corner. Another great museum is the Belvedere which has a number of stunning paintings - especially by Klimt and some lesser known (atleast to a philistine like me) artists.
The Schloss Schonbrunn is the poor man´s Versailles. The Summer Palace of the Habsburgs is not nearly as big or opulent and the rococco and baroque decorations are not even half as rich looking as that of the Louis´ Palace. There was, however, one interesting room in 40-odd rooms that are open to the public - it is called the Millions Room because of the special kind of teak used in the room. However, the paintings (over 200) were all miniature mughal´s cut into weird shapes by the royal family themselves (talk about boredom!). The palace complex had a outdoor labyrinth maze made of bushes and hedges (like in the movies) - it was fun to get lost in it - but even more interesting was the look on everyones face (especially the adults) - one of pure childish sheepishness
I even paid to visit a museum dedicated to King Franz Joseph´s wife Elisabeth (second half of the 19th c). He called her ´Sisi´and that is what Vienna knows her as and that is what the Museum is also called. It was a strange to visit a Museum dedicated to someone I had not even heard of before coming to Vienna. She was an early version of Lady Di - she was obsessed with her figure - even after 4 children she maintained her waist at 51 cm. Her images adorn everything in Vienna (from chocolates to Postcards, everything). Her hold over the souvenir market in Vienna is matched only by a certain Mr. Mozart. What Kafka is to Prague, Amadeus is to Vienna. Enough said.
One of the places I most enjoyed (and repatronised with my custom) was ´Cafe Central´. Vienna has a very strong coffee-house culture (India Coffee House, anyone?) and Cafe Central is one of the best - Freud spent hours there, as did Trotsky. The atmosphere is very 1920s. People wearing their best pearls and dresses come and smoke cigars and expensive cigarettes while agonising philosophy, and perhaps literature, over endless cups of coffee. A grand piano in the middle of the hall was being played by a dead-ringer for Henry Kissinger. I ordered the obligatory caffeine when I noticed that someone at the table next to me was having beer (the-neighbour´s-wife-is-always-prettier syndrome) so when I asked the server if beer was available, he looked insulted. ´Ofcourse we have beer. Austrian beer gut bear´. That sealed it for me and I ordered my pint of Ottakring. Freud, hopefully, would have approved.
Another must visit for the gourmand is the Sacher cafe in Hotel Sacher. The name rings a bell? It was here in 1832 that a certain Mr. Sacher hurriedly concocted a torte that still bears his name and the ´original´ is sold only at this cafe. Seeing the busy looking waitresses in their aprons with ribbons at the back, one is transported back to the Cafe Central days! Surprisingly the tarte itself was not as overpriced as I had expected it to be, but it did predictably have the 5000 calories I had expected it to have. I, obviously, need not sing paeans to its taste. That is a given. And proof of the eating was a few minutes later when I entered the ladies room instead of the men´s and only after a suitably scandalised lady kept on uttering Damen and pointing to the door, did I realise my mistake. Ofcourse I attribute it to the heady and tasty sugar which the management of that cafe had put into that torte.
Now coming onto yet another Viennese institution - The Spanish Riding School (Spanische Hofreitschule) with their snow-white Lippizzaner stallions. They have a weekly show and I did manage tickets for it even though I dont know the first thing about equestrianism (perhaps not even the correct adjective). The show is in their indoor 18th century riding hall that is photo-op in itself. Once the music started and the beautiful stallions strutted their stuff everyone was spell bound - they did about 5-6 different routines (long rein, short rein, if you really want to know) and the last routine was a 8-horse one called ´ballet of the white stallions´which was really amazing. Maybe I´ll get myself one of these horses!
Sunday morning I went for a mass service - at the HofburgKapelle. There are throngs who try and get tickets - yes one has to pay to attend the service - that is because the accompaniment is by the Vienna Boys Choir - the boys themselves are dressed in their trademark sailor´s dress and caps. Perhaps the most famous Boy band of them all ! They sang Mozart´s (who else) ´Requiem´and even though I didn´t understand a word of the service (it was in Deutsche), I really enjoyed that hour and a half.
What strikes me about this place (when compared to the UK, say) is how seriously people take the matter of their appearances. Even a visit to the local newspaper stand is an ocassion to take out one´s best jackets and coats and shoes......
Freud mesuem (the house where he stayed from 1898 to 1938) was a disappointment, but it was more than made up by a musical bathroom near the State Opera.
Well enough for today
