Feathered ones, btw.
A day in Linlithgow was what was destined for me today. By now I have learnt not to make my travel itineraries conditional upon weather. It was raining in the morning and I was in two minds but as they say back home "Dekhi Jayegi!". So off I went.
But the bit of early-morning indecision resulted in my doing my best impressions of vintage Seb Coe...
Feathered ones, btw.
A day in Linlithgow was what was destined for me today. By now I have learnt not to make my travel itineraries conditional upon weather. It was raining in the morning and I was in two minds but as they say back home "Dekhi Jayegi!". So off I went.
But the bit of early-morning indecision resulted in my doing my best impressions of vintage Seb Coe (or Milkha Singh. take your pick) on the streets of Edinburgh as I just about made it to the bus. The first few minutes on the bus (when I was purchasing the ticket) reminded me yet again of my accent (or lack of a Scottish one!) as the bus-driver and I got into a discussion about who would give the change.
Me "I will give the change"
(What he heard "Will you give the change?")
He : "Ok. I will give the change"
Me : "What? I will give the change"
(What he heard : "What? Will you give the change?")
He : "I WILL GIVE THE CHANGE"
(What was probably thinking "How did this fellow get the visa?")
Anyways, he finally gave up with a smile and a shrug of his shoulders and I did reach Linlithgow after a one-hour ride (15 miles from E'burgh, pop : 13k).
I was waiting for the "Grand Dame of Linlithgow/Stirling" to get onto the bus (those of you who remember my "Trip to Stirling" mail will understand. The rest of you obviously dont read my mails!). Anyways, the sole semi-interesting person on the bus was a dead ringer for Colin Firth. Too scared to elicit a Mark-Darcyesque response, I did not ask for an autograph! How could I forget? The only noteworthy incident during the bus ride was that the driver honked once (yes people, he honked). I even noted the time (10:41 am) and the place (Kirklisten) of this momentous occurence.
This time of the year (post-autumn, early winter) sees the leaves doing an amazing dance of colours. Everywhere fallen leaves of all hues and colours add a touch of surreality to the beautiful countryside. I refuse to believe that the beauty of the fallen leaves is natural. I am sure there is an army of people who work at night and arrange the fallen leaves casually, yet artistically, on the green meadows, pavements, and roads. And today the intermittent dew and rainwater on these leaves made every nook and cranny a photo-op.
Helios was playing hide and seek with Zeus - at the first hint of rain I would seek out the dry safety of the indoors of a shop. But as soon as I would reach inside, the sun would come out again. This conspiracy between the sun and the rain made me run three times. Then they gave up and it was sunny for the rest of the day. For the record, it was NOT fun while this hide and seek was being played.
Linlithgow's claim to fame is that Mary, Queen of Scotts was born here. There is a beautiful palace ("Linlithgow Palace". Duh?) built in the early 15th Century that dominates the city. This palace was destroyed in a fire in the 18th century and is said to lay in ruins but I thought that it was still in pretty good condition. Next to it is the St. Michaels Church consecrated in the 13th century. One of the gentlemen at the church decided that it was his duty to show me every corner of the church (He probably wanted to kill time since I was the only tourist!). He made me read Latin engravings on some of the pillars, and showed me mason's markings one of which was a Swastika. He then asked me the significance of the Swastika in Hindu mythology. I am extremely ashamed to report that I semi-cooked up a story and told him (Forgive me God for I have sinned. I told an untruth in the house of God). Anyways, he also showed me parts of the wall which bore the effects of the ire of Oliver Cromwell's troops (when they stabled their horses here, in the church, in 1646).
Inside the church, someone was playing the organ - which normally I find very soothing, but this gentleman's organ playing skills were as advanced as my guitar-playing ones and I had to beat a hasty retreat from the church despite the nice man wanting to show me each and every brick/stone of the church.
The church and the palace are situated right next to an extremely pretty lake ("Linlithgow Loch". Innovative name?). This Loch is a bird sanctuary with a large number of ducks, swans and other birds - I say 'other' because I am no Salim Ali but my untrained eye can report that the variety was mind-boggling.
At one point I was surrounded by birds on all sides and I felt as if I was part of Hitchcock's movie. Fortunately, these birds were friendly and did not attack me even though I was the only one not feeding them! And despite their not-so-apparent displeasure, I hung around the birds for a very long time enjoying the views of the loch, the church, the palace alongwith the background music of the ducks and swans (fortunately I couldn't hear the organ-player from the church in the distance!).
Then it was off for a dekko of the "Union Canal" (a 32 mile narrow canal which links Edinburgh to Falkirk Wheel and passes through Linlithgow). There is a narrow path along the canal that is very popular with cyclists for a day trip from Edinburgh to Linlithgow and back. There is a boat ride, which I missed (yet again. It was the ferry last week!). So I walked for a bit along the canal and almost broke my foot as I tried to take a photo from a precarious position.
Then I ambled back into town. Surprising the town has an extremely busy road with traffic that would rival some places in India. A late lunch was at a Pub called (no no not "Linlithgow Pub") "The Four Mary's". The baked macaroni and cheese was simply the best I have had in a long while. And I slept in the bus on the way back (courtesy the pint of Stella) so i missed the sheep, the leaves and the second ever honk in Scotland (if it did happen!).
Good to Know
- Those born in the burgh of Linlithgow are sometimes called Black Bitches (Don't ask).
- The eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month marked the signing of the Armistice (on 11th Nov., 1918) to signal the end of WWI. It is celebrated as "Remembrance Day" on the second sunday of November. It is also celebrated as Poppy Day and everyone wears and artificial poppy on their lapels. So all Edinburghers and "Black Bitches" have poppies on their lapels.
(Nov, 2006)
